Oh yeah, bells think they are in the tropics.
2.25lbs!!
Soybeans -- yummy!
Summary: this project was definitely a success. I will follow up with details on converting the gazebo to a greenhouse.
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Aquaponics Greenhouse Harvest Summary (in pics)
2.25lbs!! Summary: this project was definitely a success. I will follow up with details on converting the gazebo to a greenhouse.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Aquaponics Greenhouse Status 06-2011
Tomatoes, bell peppers, long beans, luffa gourd
Tilapia
Sludge separator in action.
Freeland FP100 as Aquaponics Growbeds
I use Freeland FP100's for my growbeds. I run deep grow beds. That is, at least 12" grow depth for the plants. This is not usual, but I found from my normal growing that plants do a lot better with deep roots.
I recommend the FP60 for those who are interested in this design. I just happen to get the FP100's at a good price. As you see though, I effectively cut them down to FP60 size.
This is the starting point:
A nice unit. Made in the USA. http://www.freelandind.com/fipolytanks.htm
Next I cut the top off using a sawsall.
Don't these look like very nice garden bed separators? Good recycling use. That's another post.
Note, the FP100 has a drain pre-plumbed. This is re-usable, but the internal fitting is aluminum. This needs to be replaced with a 1" FT to 1" SLIP adaptor. The FT portion just replaces the aluminum threaded fitting. Put teflon tape on the plastic thread prior to putting the FP adaptor on to prevent slow drip leaks.
This is a picture of a completed grow bed. It is filled with a hydroton mixture. Due to the pre-fit drain, this setup is configured to drain from the bottom side. Normally beds are made to drain down. This works without tuning, but what happens is that the drain is not at a consistent speed. The drain starts quickly then slows down for the last third of the level. It takes about 10 minutes to fully drain the bed.
You can see the overflow on the top left of this bed. This is made with 1" hose and uniseal fittings. http://www.aussieglobe.com/uniseal3.htm
The small hose is for air being pumped into the bottom of the bed.
I will post the siphon design for this bed and also the media layers I use in future posts.
Cheers.
I recommend the FP60 for those who are interested in this design. I just happen to get the FP100's at a good price. As you see though, I effectively cut them down to FP60 size.
This is the starting point:
A nice unit. Made in the USA. http://www.freelandind.com/fipolytanks.htm
Next I cut the top off using a sawsall.
Don't these look like very nice garden bed separators? Good recycling use. That's another post.
Note, the FP100 has a drain pre-plumbed. This is re-usable, but the internal fitting is aluminum. This needs to be replaced with a 1" FT to 1" SLIP adaptor. The FT portion just replaces the aluminum threaded fitting. Put teflon tape on the plastic thread prior to putting the FP adaptor on to prevent slow drip leaks.
This is a picture of a completed grow bed. It is filled with a hydroton mixture. Due to the pre-fit drain, this setup is configured to drain from the bottom side. Normally beds are made to drain down. This works without tuning, but what happens is that the drain is not at a consistent speed. The drain starts quickly then slows down for the last third of the level. It takes about 10 minutes to fully drain the bed.
You can see the overflow on the top left of this bed. This is made with 1" hose and uniseal fittings. http://www.aussieglobe.com/uniseal3.htm
The small hose is for air being pumped into the bottom of the bed.
I will post the siphon design for this bed and also the media layers I use in future posts.
Cheers.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
$1 Aquaponics Water Polisher
I saw this $1 "Mini Trash Can" at a local OSH. Couldn't resist the idea. Simple.
The "trash can" has a lid that turns to lock. This is the key. It allows the filter to be easily opened to replace the media.
Cut out a 1.5" hole in the lid and replace with 1.5" PVC pipe (suitable straight length or as shown with a 90degree elbow). Next drill 1/4" holes (two rows) all around the bottom of the can. Fill the can with polyester cotton. Put the lid on and you are ready to attach your new filter to the water return on your tanks.
Another implementation of a polisher is shown below.
The "trash can" has a lid that turns to lock. This is the key. It allows the filter to be easily opened to replace the media.
Cut out a 1.5" hole in the lid and replace with 1.5" PVC pipe (suitable straight length or as shown with a 90degree elbow). Next drill 1/4" holes (two rows) all around the bottom of the can. Fill the can with polyester cotton. Put the lid on and you are ready to attach your new filter to the water return on your tanks.
Another implementation of a polisher is shown below.
Cheers.
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Sludge Separator in Action
This is the implementation of the "Aquaponics Sludge Separator" design from my September, 2010 blog entry. I simplified the design as follows:
* used a rubbermaid storage container instead of building square out of plexigla
* reduced baffle plates to 1 instead of 2
* reduced oxygenators to 1 on the baffle plate only
* did not implement the water feed "shelf"
* the drains were single orifice instead of a long feeder pipe
Parts used:
* rubbermaid container
* acrylic sheet from Tap Plastics
* 1" Uniseal connectors (www.aussieglobe.com)
* 1" PVC pipe
* 7" TopFin bubble Wall wand
* DAP Household Adhesive Sealant, 100% Silicone, food and aquarium safe
Special steps. I used silicone glue to attach the acrylic baffle to the tub. Ensure you sandpaper the tub well and clean off prior to applying the silicone or it will not attach.
There is no need to use silicone to seal the uniseals. They work in place.
This is a picture of the build before installation and before I put on the overflow.
Cheers!
Update 2011:04:10 I am running this setup successfully with a 655GPH pump. The intake and output is 1" pipe. The output is gravity only and uses a 1m drop before going to the feeder pipe. I am feeding 3 outputs of 3/4" PVC. I will post the aquaponics setup in the future, but am considering how to add a second feeder tank -- I don't think this separator will handle another 655GPH input.
* used a rubbermaid storage container instead of building square out of plexigla
* reduced baffle plates to 1 instead of 2
* reduced oxygenators to 1 on the baffle plate only
* did not implement the water feed "shelf"
* the drains were single orifice instead of a long feeder pipe
Parts used:
* rubbermaid container
* acrylic sheet from Tap Plastics
* 1" Uniseal connectors (www.aussieglobe.com)
* 1" PVC pipe
* 7" TopFin bubble Wall wand
* DAP Household Adhesive Sealant, 100% Silicone, food and aquarium safe
There is no need to use silicone to seal the uniseals. They work in place.
This is a picture of the build before installation and before I put on the overflow.
Cheers!
Update 2011:04:10 I am running this setup successfully with a 655GPH pump. The intake and output is 1" pipe. The output is gravity only and uses a 1m drop before going to the feeder pipe. I am feeding 3 outputs of 3/4" PVC. I will post the aquaponics setup in the future, but am considering how to add a second feeder tank -- I don't think this separator will handle another 655GPH input.
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Serendipitous Seed Starter (Aquaponics)
Below is my 125Gallon indoor fish tank for my overwintering aquaponics Tilapia (waiting to go out for the summer growing season). I keep the water at 80 degrees F. Notice how that turned out to be an excellent bottom heater for my seedling tray. Those are tomatoes, soy beans, long beans, and luffa gourd seedlings. Germination took 2-4 days (specie dependant).
Large Fish Tank Heater Controller
The following is an inexpensive tank heater controller.
I started by purchasing a "ViaAqua, Aquarium heater, 250 watts, Titanium" from "amekaaquatic" on Ebay. This unit has an external temperature controller attached to a 250W Titanium heater. The picture on Ebay shows a perfect unit for this modification as the controller seems to have 1) power input plug, 2) temperature sensor on cord, and 3) power output to the heater. The units actually ship with a little mod. A controller has the power input, and a thicker wire that goes to the heater and then splits from there to the sensor. This made the mod a little more complicated (just a little).
Also as part of this project you need a controllable power box at the desired capacity. I wanted a single 1800W box (15A circuit). This would be built as a 1800W receptacle, relay controlled with a plug input. For time reasons, I had this built by JehmCo (www.jehmco.com) for $70 including shipping. The delivered unit was very professional looking and to code -- always happy with JehmCo.
So, next step was to CUT the cord going to the heater. I did this after it exited from the controller so I maintained the water resistant seals to the controller. I also cut the smaller sensor wire coming out of the heater (the left most wire in the picture of the heater). Interesting that the wires coming out of the controller are:
blue: fused neutral
brown: switched live
green: sensor
yellow: sensor
The two sensor wires leaving the HEATER are new wires that are blue and brown (smaller gauge than the power). Confusing!
I sealed the cut on the sensor wire at the heater using Starbrite Liquid Electrical Tape, AND a piece of Storehouse UL listed Marine Heat Shrink Tubing.
The wire to the heater was "fixed" with a length of outdoor extension cord (16/2) with the male end attached. The female or socket end of the extension cord was used to "fix" the power output of the controller. You can see this setup in the first picture. The controlled box (from JehmCo) has two plugs -- one for mains power in (that goes out the bottom of the picture) -- and one for the control input. The control input is shown plugged into the orange socket wire from the controller.
The final connection was to extend the sensor wire -- I used household lamp wire -- at the cut wire coming out of the controller.
Total cost: $107 (including cost of sacrificed extension cord).
I started by purchasing a "ViaAqua, Aquarium heater, 250 watts, Titanium" from "amekaaquatic" on Ebay. This unit has an external temperature controller attached to a 250W Titanium heater. The picture on Ebay shows a perfect unit for this modification as the controller seems to have 1) power input plug, 2) temperature sensor on cord, and 3) power output to the heater. The units actually ship with a little mod. A controller has the power input, and a thicker wire that goes to the heater and then splits from there to the sensor. This made the mod a little more complicated (just a little).
Also as part of this project you need a controllable power box at the desired capacity. I wanted a single 1800W box (15A circuit). This would be built as a 1800W receptacle, relay controlled with a plug input. For time reasons, I had this built by JehmCo (www.jehmco.com) for $70 including shipping. The delivered unit was very professional looking and to code -- always happy with JehmCo.
So, next step was to CUT the cord going to the heater. I did this after it exited from the controller so I maintained the water resistant seals to the controller. I also cut the smaller sensor wire coming out of the heater (the left most wire in the picture of the heater). Interesting that the wires coming out of the controller are:
blue: fused neutral
brown: switched live
green: sensor
yellow: sensor
The two sensor wires leaving the HEATER are new wires that are blue and brown (smaller gauge than the power). Confusing!
I sealed the cut on the sensor wire at the heater using Starbrite Liquid Electrical Tape, AND a piece of Storehouse UL listed Marine Heat Shrink Tubing.
The wire to the heater was "fixed" with a length of outdoor extension cord (16/2) with the male end attached. The female or socket end of the extension cord was used to "fix" the power output of the controller. You can see this setup in the first picture. The controlled box (from JehmCo) has two plugs -- one for mains power in (that goes out the bottom of the picture) -- and one for the control input. The control input is shown plugged into the orange socket wire from the controller.
The final connection was to extend the sensor wire -- I used household lamp wire -- at the cut wire coming out of the controller.
Total cost: $107 (including cost of sacrificed extension cord).
MW -- PS: do not undertake this project unless you are confident in you ability to do electrical work to code and in a safe and knowledgeable manner. Always respect mains power. This is for info only and not for the inexperienced. I do not take responsibility for any actions you do based on this info.
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